As kids many of us dream of being able to visit the Amazon Rainforest. It’s an ecosystem that seems so untamed and full of biodiversity that is easily visible, especially in documentaries like Planet Earth. As we prepared for our trip to the Amazon I wanted to temper those expectations by admitting that wildlife would be tough to spot. Well friends, I was very wrong - wildlife moves freely and abundantly in the rainforest and it still shocks me to think how much wildlife we were able to see during our time in the reserve. Each day brought something unique, spectacular, followed by sunsets on a lake doused in introspection and awestruck colors. Even though in reality our time in Cuyabeno was merely 4 days it felt as though time stood still.
When we began our trip to the Cuyabeno we were pleasantly surprised when I came across the Park Director of the Cuyabeno Reserve whom also happened to be a CPAM 2016 Summer Course Participant! It was such a lovely surprise that Luis, the Park Director, even gave us a private tour of the newest interpretation center on site. The connection to the land already felt so purposeful and significant.
Our luck continued immediately upon getting on the canoe that would take us to the lodge in the middle of the rainforest where, with the help of our guide, spotted various species of monkeys, macaws, other types tropical birds, and colorful butterflies en route. I made a list of all the animals we saw during our time on the reserve below. On our first evening alone we spotted pink river dolphins swimming in the water canals almost as if offering a blessing to our visit of their home. As the sun neared dusk, vibrant pinks and oranges bathed the sky and surroundings making the emergence of the dolphins that more intentional and holy. Even now, I struggle to find the words to describe how special it felt to see the pink river dolphins. This same feeling quickly expanded when we experienced a night walk in the jungle. I’m not one to feel fear in nature, but that night I felt very unsettled by all that lurked in the dark night. I struggled to find composure at the pitch blackness surrounding us. Whenever our guide flashed lights at leaves or trunks huge scorpion spiders scattered, tarantulas laid still in trees, and scorpions scurried the forest floor in search of a meal. For the first time I felt that a small creature could literally pose a deathly threat to us. I found it hard to touch nearby branches at just imagining what could be perched nearby. The amount of life that existed in the night was so overwhelming and astonishing - truly humbling.
This pattern continued every day in the Cuyabeno whether it was early in the morning for 6am canoe rides, afternoon hikes in the jungle, or evening canoe rides, we found animals all around. Perhaps my favorite encounter was spotting a boa and a two-toed sloth at the same time on one of our evening canoe rides. I can proudly say that as our guide pointed out the boa, I happened to spot the sloth perched quietly on a nearby branch. On another afternoon canoe ride, we had to paddle our way back to the lodge. In that hour alone we saw howler monkeys, macaws, spider monkeys, capuchino monkeys, various birds, and fish. The whole time in the rainforest I felt both inner peace by all the slow and mindful canoe outings paired with deep sense of curiosity and excitement from the surrounding nature. We had a fantastic guide that helped us unleash our inner child to learn about symbiotic relationships in nature, to observe with curiosity and learning, and to appreciate the medicinal and ecological knowledge that rainforest offers.
We felt welcomed and connected with local Indigenous community members as well. For instance we participated in a wholesome communal bread making activity. It didn’t feel artificial nor scripted. The woman that shared her garden with us seemed sincere and excited to share a bit of her traditions with us. Jairo, our guide, even made a delicious ceviche to pair with the cassava bread during our visit to her home. A ceviche that I crave even as I write this post. No doubt, his interpretive abilities and thrill-seeking demeanor helped us understand the rainforest, from the strength of piranha to getting up and close to elusive caimans. I will remember and cherish his lessons for many years to come.
I’m really grateful for those 4 short days where we witnessed some of the best animal encounters in my life. Not to mention we got to watch a World Cup game in the middle of jungle with new friends rooting and gleefully supporting Spain alongside a Spaniard. Shout-out to Juan for making us all fans of Spain!
Truly, each morning was a blessing that came with a wave of deep gratitude of being in such a magical place. We made friends that I hope to see again someday. Some we even met again in Galápagos.
Oh Galápagos, the place that took my heart and made a more mindful human being. Dare I say, perhaps even more than the Cuyabeno?
