Cuenca - Artisanally Andean


In Brazil, we realized how much we enjoyed having a routine and steady rhythm. This might’ve been because of the five months of constant, primarily unpredictable, travel. It was starting to wear on us, and we needed to slow down. Paul was also starting up his job at Beezwax but wasn’t quite ready to return to the U.S. Based on recommendations from friends and peers, we decided to spend three weeks in Cuenca, Ecuador, to transition from travel to our lives back in the U.S. - and we’re so glad we did. 

During this time, Paul established a good rhythm between work and sightseeing. As for me, I used this time to catch up on the blog, researched potential career moves, and delved into profound introspection and healing. Our time in Cuenca wasn’t action-packed, but it offered some memorable moments and allowed us to experience living and working outside of the U.S.

Cuenca is a charming city with beautiful colonial buildings, churches, colorful markets, and unmeasurable fresh fruits, flowers, and vegetables. While Paul worked, I used the time to shop at the markets and try delicious meal ingredients. Our travels had limited our ability to cook meals, so I lunged at the chance to cook from scratch with fresh ingredients. I prioritized making fresh fruit smoothies every morning, and we had fruit readily available. After work, our evenings consisted of walking around town, occasionally sampling ice cream, and visiting our favorite store - The Paccari Chocolate House. 

While our time in Cuenca might sound tranquil, we visited the area around the Easter holiday and, subsequently, Cuenca’s independence. There was live music, tons of artisanal stands, acrobatic marching bands, and fireworks for two weekends in a row. The fireworks were impressive and reminded me of the fireworks I grew up watching in Mexico. They were definitely not compliant with U.S. safety standards, but they were worth seeing nonetheless. 

We used the weekends to explore the surrounding area to keep our travel bug alive. On one of the weekends, we visited the small towns of SigSig and Chordeleg. SigSig and Cuenca, for that matter, are known for crafting the commonly known Panama Hats. Though their real name is Toquilla hats, they are a staple accessory of the Chola Cuencana - the Indigenous women in the area. SigSig had its own festivities, and we joined in on the vibrancy and celebration of the town. Likewise, in Chordeleg, we witnessed the community celebrations of their culture and traditions through music and a fashion show featuring traditional attire. Most interestingly, the small town is known for its handcrafted jewelry, which means nearly every shop in the town square sells jewelry by the pound. 

On another weekend, we ventured by bus to Cajas National Park, located at an altitude of over 12,000 ft and comprised mainly of Andean moorland. Even though we’re used to hiking in all sorts of weather, thank you, Patagonia; we weren’t expecting the frigid temperatures and cold rain. We decided to hike a trail around the lake, but about halfway through, the muddy trail had us pleading for warmth. We pushed through and completed the hike covered in mud, but grateful to have added another Ecuadorian National Park to our list.  

As one of our final indulgences in South America, we visited a Spa Resort called Piedra de Agua on the outskirts of Cuenca in the town of Baños. Our friends Jason and Michelle took us here on the first days in Cuenca, and we loved every minute of the restorative treatment. For 35 dollars, we were pampered with mud baths, a hot springs pool inside a cave, and Incan steam baths (Baños de Cajón), and topped off with a Japanese-style hot spring pool. We felt so relaxed and rejuvenated that we revisited it, which was equally relaxing the second time. 

There are a few other iconic things we experienced. For instance, a few nights ago, we experienced our first earthquake in the middle of the night. Luckily, it was mild enough, and I only awoke startled. The other worthy fact is that my maiden name, Arizaga, is quite common in Cuenca. In fact, it was even the last name of one of Cuenca’s governors, and even a street bears his name. Seeing the street sign was a simple but meaningful moment for me because my last name has been so rare for the majority of my life. 

This post concludes our final stop in South America. Tomorrow, April 27th, begins our return to the U.S. We’ll make a pit stop trip in Mexico City to visit my family, but we’ll soon be back to our lives in the U.S.  I’m not quite sure how things will change, but I’m confident that we’re not the same people. We’ve grown more potent as a couple, appeased our inner child’s dreams, and shifted our perspective on travel and even our world views.
 
Words cannot describe the emotions I’m feeling right now. It’s bittersweet. I’m so saddened that our lifestyle for the past six months is ending, but at the same time, I’m excited to see friends, family, and, of course, our dog, Luna. I know we’ll be back to revisit some of our favorite places, so that gives me great hope. After all, we still have to visit Machu Picchu. Until then, I sign off this last post with deep gratitude, humility, and appreciation for all of South America's beauty - Gracias.